Trunkville Weekly

Three Things You Need To Know
1 ● You’re missing out on bespoke shoes
2 ● Black tie doesn’t have to be stuffy
3 ● Angel Chang can help you make a memorable Mother’s Day

1 ● You’re missing out on bespoke shoes

Master shoemaker Emiko Matsuda comes to New York next month, May 25th, 26th, and 27th. She’ll be at The Manhattan Club. We spoke to her via email about her process.

For readers who are new to the concept of bespoke footwear, how would you describe the difference and advantages of bespoke shoes compared to off-the-shelf options? 

One of the main distinctions lies in the lasts (wooden molds of the shoes) that are crafted based on your individual feet in bespoke shoes. Ready-to-wear (RTW) shoes typically offer a size and width range, but in bespoke, such standardized measures do not apply. Many individuals experience some degree of misfit and endure discomfort in mass-produced shoes.

Bespoke shoes, on the other hand, undergo a meticulous handmade process. From shaping the insoles and lasting the leather to hand-sewing the welt, stitching the soles (even making my own threads from hemps) building the heels, and applying wax with iron—every step is carried out with precision and care. The manual craftsmanship allows for fine adjustments on each pair, the machines cannot replicate. While bespoke shoes come at a higher cost, they are a long-term investment in comfort and quality that proves worthwhile over time.

Can you take us through the journey of creating a pair of bespoke shoes? How do you collaborate with clients to ensure their vision and your craftsmanship align perfectly?

The journey starts with measuring your feet, then the lasts are made based on them. Then cut the patterns of the design using brown paper, leather pieces are clicked (as we call it in London West End ). Those pieces are passed to the closer who stitches the uppers.

Then back to the shoemaking bench, pull them over the last, welted. At the halfway stage, we have a fitting.

Next, the outsoles are stitched, heels are built one layer by one layer. edges are sanded by hand then it moves on to the finishing stage with heated iron. Ink and wax are applied to seal and shine.

Lasts are pulled out, the shoes are sent to a shoetree makers. When completed, polish the shoes to shine. Time to send out to the client who waited patiently for almost 12 months!

Collaborating with clients involves understanding their vision, lifestyle, and preferences, using visual aids for alignment, maintaining open communication for feedback, being transparent about progress, and focusing on attention to detail to ensure satisfaction.

How have your experiences in London's West End influenced your designs, and how do you balance tradition with innovation in your shoemaking?

I began my shoemaking career at Fosters in London Westend in 1997. Surrounded by old samples and hundreds of shoes at all times, it was only natural for me to develop an eye for traditional British shapes and styles. Since becoming an independent shoemaker, I have adhered to these traditional styles, as they are deeply rooted in my practice. However, I often find new and fascinating inspirations through clients' requests and suggestions to their orders. This is where tradition meets creativity for me.

You can see the details of Emiko’s craft on her Instagram. You can see details of her upcoming New York trunk show on Trunkville.com.

2 ● Black tie doesn’t have to be stuffy

Derek Guy wrote a Twitter thread offering a critique of Elon Musk’s recent red carpet outfit. Derek is a fashion writer — and a prolific tweeter who you should definitely follow.

The entire thread offers both a specific critique and a history of “black tie.” It is worth reading. (Cliff notes: Elon’s suit is too tight, a common fashion offense.) But the closing post offers a few fun alternatives to down-the-middle black tie outfits. Sharing below for your enjoyment.

3 ● Angel Chang can help you make a memorable Mother’s Day

Angel Chang is a bespoke women’s wear maker based in New York. She works with master craftsmen in rural villages in Guizhou province, China to bring her elegant designs to life. Each piece takes 5-6 months. But beginning the process on Mother’s Day — coming up next month! — would make for a fantastic gift.

It’s elegant. It’s zero-carbon. It’s handmade. Hard to ask for more.

You can find out more on her website.

Trunkville Weekly is published every Tuesday.

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See you next week!

—Editor